"There was a lot of rain leading up to the '99 harvest, and this really swelled the yields, producing the ?famous dilution? of '99," said Franck Klack, who recently took over winemaking duties from his father Jean. "We start picking on October 4 following ten days of rain, then stopped from October 10 through 25, during which time the grapes lost some of their excess water." While yields were also quite high for the estate basic wines in 2000, at the level of the grand crus production was a good 15% to 20% lower than that of the previous year, and only pinot gris showed any adverse effects of rot. I was unable to taste the 2000 rieslings from Mulforst and Rosacker as they were still fermenting. (Vineyard Expressions, Ithaca, NY; Sante Distributing, Durham, NC)

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Clos Saint Ulrich

Complex aromas of smoke, lime, quinine and flinty minerality. Juicy, lean and penetrating; dry and uncompromising but has good flavor intensity. Longer on the palate than the riesling Mulforst, which showed an edge of acidity and lacked real concentration. This still needs a year or two of bottle aging.

85(+?)

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Schoenenbourg

Perfumed, precise aromas of spring flowers, lime and minerals. Limey and brisk, with juicy acids and noteworthy flavor authority. Very firm but not hard; tastes dryer than its 9 g/l r.s. would suggest. Finishes with a tactile impression of dusty stone. Built to age.

88(+?)

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Rosacker

Deeply pitched aromas of green apple and white flowers. Nicely ripe and supple, but less pristine than the Schoenenbourg riesling, despite possessing more acidity (7.8 grams per liter, vs. 7.3).

87

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris Rosenbourg

Ripe aromas of smoke, game and peach. Soft, fat, moderately sweet flavors of yellow fruits. Not especially shapely or bright (in fact, this is a bit flat) but offers good texture. Could use a bit more grip on the back end.

85

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Sporen

Rose petal, lichee, lime and spice on the nose. Fairly dry (12 g/l r.s.) and shapely, with lime blossom and mineral flavors nicely buffering the wine moderate residual sugar. Nicely restrained fruit flavors. Finishes with very good persistence.

87(+?)

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Schoenenbourg

Reticent but pure pit fruit aromas. Fairly dense and somewhat sweet (24 g/l r.s.) in the mouth, but not yet showing much nuance. Ultimately a wine of only moderate flavor intensity.

86

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling

White grapefruit, floral and fusel notes on the nose. Firm, fresh and bright, with a juicy flavor of lime. A light wine with good cut. The estate dropped a lot of crop in 2000, noted Annie Mittnacht.

84-86

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Clos Saint Ulrich

Pure aromas of flowers and powdered stone. Quite dry, floral and perfumed in the mouth; conveys an impression of stony precision. Finishes with a refreshing edge of grapefruit skin.

87-89

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Schoenenbourg

Very minerally nose of wet stone, grapefruit and char. Densely packed, concentrated and just off-dry (the wine is still fermenting its sugar, according to Franck). Supple and persistent. Already boasts aromatic flavors of flowers, lime, quinine and powdered stone.

88-90

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris

Subtle, fresh aromas of butter and spice. Supple and off-dry, with moderately concentrated peach and honey notes. Nicely balanced and persistent, but also a bit lean on the back end. The fruit here was cleaner than the pinot gris of '99, said Franck.

84-86

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Saint Ulrich

Discreet but nicely aromatic nose of white flowers and ripe citrus fruits. Deeper and more layered than the basic pinot gris; conveys a fairly dry impression. Comes across as a bit aggressive, with some acidity yet to be absorbed, but showed better balance with aeration. Nicely ripe back end.

86-88

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris Rosenbourg

Charry, oily aromas of peach, hazelnut and spice. A distinct step up in intensity from the Clos St. Ulrich; moderately sweet (about 30 g/l r.s.) but nicely balanced, thanks to harmonious, ripe acidity and firm backbone. Sappy flavors of peach and exotic spices. Finishes with very good length.

87-90

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris Schoenenbourg

Restrained, nuanced nose combines ripe peach, lichee, white flowers and stony minerality. Fat and rich, with generous, pliant fruit nicely framed by harmonious acids and supported by underlying flint and mineral notes. Finishes subtle and long. Very promising wine.

89-92

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Rosacker

Reticent aromas of rose petal, lichee and stone. Fat, dense and rich, but rather dry, with substantial alcohol (14%) buffering the 15 g/l r.s. Hint of lichee in the mouth. A very young, classic gewurztraminer that not yet especially spicy.

88-90

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Schoenenbourg

Spicy aromas of smoked luncheon meat and powdered stone, along with a fusel component. Excellent intensity and depth of fruit and minerals flavors, complicated by a fusel note. Dense, chewy and detailed. Very persistent on the back end. These grapes always produce higher potential alcohol than the Rosacker, notes Franck.

90-92

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Sporen

Complex aromas of smoked meat, lichee and nutmeg. Large-scaled and rather gently styled, with moderately sweet, captivating citrus and spice flavors. Conveys a warmer impression than either the Rosacker or Schoenenbourg gewurztraminers and shows less precision on the back end. But nicely concentrated and persistent.

88-91

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Riesling Vendange Tardive

Slightly high-toned aromas of green apple, pear blossom, spring flowers and mint. Juicy and penetrating, but still essentially a gentle style of riesling. Good but not outstanding flavor intensity. This struck me as slightly dry-edged after the estate 2000 grand cru gewurztraminers.

86-89?

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Tokay-Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive

Quite reticent, slightly oxidative aromas of apple and pear. Then surprisingly sweet in the mouth, with modest acidity and grip. Hints at flower blossom but seems a bit short on personality today. Perhaps in an awkward stage.

87-89?

1999 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive

Lime blossom, licorice and wet stone on the slightly high-toned but fresh nose. Juicy and intensely flavored, with harmonious, ripe acidity leavening the 65 g/l r.s. Not a particularly fat style and rather light on its feet. A refreshing grapefruity quality contributes to the impression of finesse. The concentration here came more through drying of the grapes than via noble rot, according to Franck.

89

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive

Musky, youthful aromas of quinine, minerals and lichee. Fat, thick and sweet; a rather powerful gewurztraminer with slightly elevated alcohol. I find the '99 version more stylish and less obviously sweet, but this is actually higher in acidity. Finishes slightly warm and persistent.

87-89

2000 Domaine Mittnacht Klack Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles

Tangy aromas of honey, brown spices, flowers and meat (the concentration came through very good dry botrytis and passerillage, said Franck). Superconcentrated, rather powerful flavors of yellow plum and spices enlivened by bright acidity. This has really lovely fruit and fat and accurate varietal character. A very good showing.

90-92
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