I focused my efforts here on Mure wines from his 16 hectares of vines in Clos St. Landelin, in the grand cru Vorbourg, a very warm site that in most years yields wines of atypical richness and texture. Mure's daughter Veronique describes 2000 as a vintage that produced stylish wines that will evolve relatively quickly. The harvest began early and was finished by October 10. "The danger in 2000 was dilution in the vines picked late," noted Rene Mure, who added that the 1999 wines will generally evolve more slowly in bottle. My tasting concluded with a hugely rich fruit bomb of a tokay SGN from Clos St. Landelin that offered tangy, nobly rotten flavors of apricot, grapefruit and quince but was still fermenting and could not be rated. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of smoky red fruits, tobacco, earth and roasted oak. Fat, sweet and ripe, with slightly earthy flavors of roasted strawberry and plum supported by sound acidity. Finishes with light tannins and decent persistence.
($45; from rocky soil on the plateau of the hill; aged in two-thirds new oak barriques Very good full deep red. Fresh aromas of cherry, plum, tobacco and sexy oak tones. Supple, vinous and full, with fairly dense red fruit and oak char flavors. Still a bit of acidity to be absorbed but there also good sweetness here.
Full red-ruby. Aromatic nose combines cherry, raspberry, coffee grounds, smoke and game. Ripely fruity and nicely concentrated. Finishes with substantial, slightly edgy tannins and very good length.
Saturated red-ruby. Reticent aromas of strawberry, raspberry and celery seed. Sweet and fruit-driven; a bit less gamey than the "V" but not clearly more concentrated. Still holding a bit of malic acidity. Seems rather tannic. This and the "V" pinot underwent a full four weeks of skin contact (including a week-long pre-fermentation cold soak), then did their malolactic fermentation in barriques Prior to the 2001 harvest, they will go into cuve for a few more months of aging.
Lemon, fresh herbs and a nutty nuance on the nose. Fat and silky, with lemon and floral flavors enlivened by harmonious acidity. Offers plenty of palate presence and good length, but finishes with a faint bitter edge.
Rather complex nose combines white peach, grapefruit, orange oil, smoke, spices and fresh herbs. Fat and silky, but nicely framed by brisk acidity. Notes of white peach, citrus skin and butter. Solidly structured and persistent.
Aromas of candied lemon peel and white grapefruit, along with a whiff of honey. Firm, fresh and penetrating, but rather easygoing and not at all hard. Notes of lemon and stone. Finishes with good persistence.
Perfumed, subtle aromas of lemon and grapefruit skin, tangerine, white peach and dusty stone. Dense and ripe, with a slight impression of sweetness (10 g/l r.s.) nicely leavened by fresh acidity. Gripping, very persistent finish. A big wine that will need some time to express itself.
Aromatic nose combines orange blossom and honey. Sweet and fruit-driven, with flavors of apricot and peach and a faint leesy quality. With its rather soft acidity, this comes across as a bit heavy.
Citrus fruits and flowers on the nose. Supple, fruity and spicy; a moderately concentrated gewurztraminer with some power but a nice light touch. Finishes with good persistence and a faint bitter edge.
Pure but reticent aromas. Denser and brighter than the basic Vorbourg bottling, with stronger stony underpinning and nicely integrated acidity. Chewier in the middle palate. Finishes long and quite fresh.
Aromas of lemon, spices and pepper, along with an exotic hint of banana. Quite dry and brisk, with rather cool flavors. Is this leaner than the '99, or is it simply the carbonic gas? Quite dry, even a bit tart, on the back end. Hard to judge today.
Ripe peach, nutmeg, cinnamon, fresh herbs and a charry note on the nose. Penetrating, spicy, intense fruit nicely supported by lively acidity. This has density and structure, as well as subtle persistence. Will go into stainless steel soon. A sylvaner with impressive potential.
Highly perfumed nose combines white flowers, white grapefruit, licorice and mint. Bright and on the lean side, with musky lemon, ginger and mineral flavors supported by a strong spine of acidity. This is much fresher than the '99. Finishes dry, firm and persistent.
Subdued nose hints at exotic mango. Dense, quite ripe and fairly powerful, with sharply delineated flavors of lemon, lime and minerals. Riper and stronger than the Zinnkoepfle. Brisk lemony acidity really carries the fruit. Finishes with sneaky persistence.
Slightly exotic aromas of mandarin orange and pineapple. Fat, chewy and strong, with strong mineral cut. Very bracing and unevolved. This is higher in alcohol but a bit dryer than the regular Vorbourg (5 g/l r.s., vs. 8). But there more wine here. Still quite tight and young.
Pale gold color. Aromas of ripe peach, honey and spices. Slightly hard-edged flavors of fruit salad and earth. The faint bitterness is repeated on the back end. Acids are quite firm due to the early harvest date.
Spicy, stony aromas of peach, lime and flowers. Large-scaled and rich; fairly sweet (50 g/l r.s.) but not heavy. Finishes ripe and persistent, with nicely buffered sweetness.
Subtly spicy aromas of lime, lemon and spring flowers. Fat and satisfying, but fresh and surprisingly dry. Narrows slightly on the back end but avoids the bitterness often shown by this variety.
Nose dominated by crystallized lemon peel. Dense but tightly wound and quite vibrant, with strongly citric lemon flavor. Brisk acidity contributes to the impression of dryness. I like this style. Should develop slowly.
Very rich, ripe nose hints at exotic fruits. Sweeter, thicker and riper than the regular Vorbourg gewurztraminer; slightly leesy flavors of banana and spice. Quite rich but today this comes across as a bit fatigued, and slightly bitter on the finish.
Fruit-driven aromas of peach, yellow plum, lemon and white flowers. Fat and rich but brisk, with nicely concentrated flavors of lemon, flowers and spices. An edge of acidity gives this wine excellent grip. A very good showing.