Mauro Veglio shares a courtyard and a lot of wine-making techniques with his good friend Elio Altare. Veglio's Barolos spend just four or five days on their skins in rotofermenters that make three or four revolutions per hour. The wines then go into large tanks to finish their alcoholic fermentations. In the old days, the harvests took place later and the weather was cooler, Veglio told me. Farmers who made Barolo also had to worry about picking their corn, preparing their soil for the wheat crop, and cutting wood for winter. So they crushed their nebbiolo fruit, and then punched down the cap before and after work each day. The long macerations of the past were more an economic necessity than a conscious choice, Veglio maintained. (T. Edward Wines Ltd. , New York, NY)

2003 Mauro Veglio Dolcetto d'Alba

($14) Good medium-deep red. Fruity aromas of kirsch, maraschino cherry and violet. Fruit-driven and supple, with moderately concentrated, fat flavors of cherry and chocolate. Finishes with fresh fruit and more perfume than most 2003 dolcettos from the area.


2003 Mauro Veglio Barbera d'Alba

($16) Bright, medium ruby. Spicy aromas of cassis, blackberry and violet. Sweet, supple and juicy, with moderately concentrated flavors of dark berries, licorice and mint. Finishes with fairly soft tannins and decent length. This got just a bit of barrique: three months in second-use barrels.


2001 Mauro Veglio Barbera d'Alba Cascina Nuova

($25; from the estate's older vines and best sites; aged for 18 months in barriques, 80% new) Good full ruby. Very oaky aromas of sweet dark berries and tobacco. Fat, sweet, silky and lush, with strong oakiness on the palate. Quite different in style from Veglio's barbera normale, but also sweet and seamless. Finishes with suave tannins and good length.


2001 Mauro Veglio L'Insieme VdT

($60; 40% nebbiolo, 30% barbera and 30% cabernet sauvignon, blended after 18 months in a high percentage of oak) Good full ruby-red. Intense aromas of red- and blackcurrant, tobacco and sweet nutty oak. Sweet, lush and fruit-driven; a rather graceful, suave wine dominated by berry flavors. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and good grip.


2000 Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arborina

($57) Medium red. Musky, expressive aromas of ripe redcurrant, plum and nuts. Suave, lush and sweet; mellow and easy to drink. A very approachable Barolo with moderate thrust and definition; broad, building tannins; and good length. Very true to the vintage.


2000 Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Gattera

($53) Medium red, with a hint of development. Warm, inviting aromas of mocha, nuts, tobacco, roasted nuts and cinders. Sweet, ripe and full, with good concentration and breadth. Broad and dense on the back, with big but even tannins. From a hot southwest-facing vineyard that always yields nebbiolo with a warm and spicy character, according to Veglio-frequently with notes of dried apricot and peach.


2000 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto

($57) Medium red. Cooler aromas of cherry, blackberry, plum, leather, menthol and olive. Juicy and fresh, with more lift and perfume in the middle palate owing to the wine's brighter acids. Notes of plum, minerals and truffle. Not fat or superconcentrated but subtle and persistent. Finishes with fine, ripe tannins. This sand and chalk vineyard in front of the town of Serralunga normally flowers and is harvested at least a week later than the Veglios' La Morra sites, and obviously benefited from the very warm growing season of 2000.


2000 Mauro Veglio Barolo Rocche

($77) Medium red. Complex aromas of redcurrant, dried flowers, mocha, milk chocolate, nuts and cinders. Suave and nicely concentrated, with cherry and berry flavors. Not hugely primary but the least forward of Veglio's 2000 Barolos, with good thrust for the vintage. Gutsy, aromatic wine, finishing with firm but rather suave tannins and building length. Veglio says the crop level here was lower than in his other Barolo vineyards. He also aged this wine in about 80% new barriques, vs. 40% to 50% for his other Barolos. I'd give this two or three more years in bottle.


2001 Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Arborina

Good full red. Complex aromas of plum, redcurrant and brown spices, lifted by a floral element. Sweet, supple and smooth, with enticing perfume of dried flowers. Thoroughly ripe but also cool and juicy. Finishes with firm, granular tannins that reach the front teeth.


2001 Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Gattera

Good medium red. Bright aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, fresh flowers, tar and underbrush, all perked up by mint. Sweet, lush and silky, with nicely judged extraction. Very suave Barolo, finishing with big tooth- and palate-coating tannins. Showing well today.

2001 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto

Good full red. Highly complex nose combines dark raspberry, roasted herbs, olive, menthol and underbrush. Sweet and silky in the mouth, with insidious dark fruit flavors. Quite suave and pinot-like in texture. The granular, dusty tannins arrive earlier than those of the Gattera. But this is longer and younger. The '99 version of this bottling was muscular in a Serralunga way, but this and the '00 are altogether more graceful.


2001 Mauro Veglio Barolo Rocche

Good medium red. Reticent aromas of musky red berries, menthol, underbrush, fresh herbs and mint. Fatter and broader than the Castelletto but less sweet and more backward. Finishes with a repeating menthol quality and building, slightly dry-edged tannins.

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