2000 Franco Boasso Barolo Serralunga

($38) Full red. Aromas of mint, pepper and orange peel, with suggestions of less-than-perfect cooperage. At once sweet and slightly green on the palate, with raw oak rusticity currently overshadowing the wine's fruit. Finishes with light but slightly dry tannins. Could use more concentration.

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2000 Franco Boasso Barolo Gabutti

($45) Medium amber-edged red. Musky, quickly evolving aromas of tobacco, leather and earth. Sweeter, somewhat decadent flavors of strawberry and spices. Fatter than the Serralunga offering but with an edge of acidity and fairly fine tannins giving the wine more shape. Here I enjoyed the wine's meaty, leathery rusticity. The finish offers good lift and avoids dryness. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

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