2001 Cascina Bongiovanni Barolo

Good full red. Aromatically complex nose combines raspberry, licorice, minerals, white truffle and underbrush. Sweet but firmly structured, with youthfully medicinal flavors of red cherry, licorice and mint. Finishes very firm and a bit dry.

87-88

2001 Cascina Bongiovanni Barolo Pernanno

(as with the normale, this was a sample from tank; previously the wine aged in 50% new and 50% used barriques Very good deep red. Nose initially dominated by spicy, nutty oak; raspberry and minerals emerged with aeration. Lush, sweet and seamless, with very ripe flavors of raspberry liqueur and sweet oak. Very dense wine with excellent inner-mouth vibrancy. Long and juicy on the end, finishing with a medicinal cherry note and substantial but sweet tannins. Very interesting Barolo, but unlikely to match the superb '99 version for complexity or sheer structure. Davide Mozzoni has always intentionally harvested the Pernanno vines late and says this cuvee typically shows a passito quality as a result. He uses a rotofermenter for the Pernanno (but a regular vertical fermenter for his Barolo normale), and the total maceration time is quite short. However, he feels that this cuvee has frequently lacked finesse with aging, and thus beginning with 2004 he plans to harvest this holding at the same time as his basic Barolo, in an attempt to make more elegant wines. I have mixed feelings about this change in approach, as the Pernanno has been a consistently intriguing, if idiosyncratic, Barolo.

89-91

2000 Cascina Bongiovanni Barolo

($60) Medium red, with a hint of development at the rim. Reticent aromas of mocha, underbrush and cinnamon. Sweet but a bit stunted today, with slightly medicinal flavors. On the chunky side, and a tad dry on the end.

86

2000 Cascina Bongiovanni Barolo Pernanno

($76) Medium red. Rather suave aromas of currant, mocha, nuts and cedary oak. Sweet, supple and penetrating for the vintage, with a slight dried grape character. Finishes juicy, tannic and long but not dry, despite showing considerable oak. (Empson U.S.A. Alexandria VA

88(+?)
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