2001 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello

($45) Medium red. Smoky aromas of redcurrant, tar and meat, with a liqueur-like quality. Smooth, sweet and expressive if a bit chunky and lacking in definition. Flavors lifted by a floral nuance. Finishes with slightly dry tannins and good but not outstanding length. (Ideal Wines, Medford MA ; Diamond Wine Merchants, Emeryville CA ; Cavatappi Distribution, Seattle WA

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