2000 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Tortoniano

($40) Dee p red. Full-blown yet somewhat reduced aromas of kirsch, truffle, chocolate, menthol and underbrush. Lush, soft and moderately sweet, with rather vague red fruit and menthol flavors offering limited definition and concentration. Finishes with dusty, slightly drying tannins.


2000 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Brunate

($90) Saturated deep red. Reduced aromas of dark plum, mocha, cola and brown spices; a bit muddy. Then sweeter and more delineated on the palate than the Tortoniano, with good ripeness and sound balancing acidity. Still, this is not particularly vibrant or perfumed in the mouth. In fact, this is a bit sullen and closed today, due in part to its reduced quality. Finishes with dusty, slightly drying tannins.


2000 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio

($90) Good deep red. Livelier aromas of dark berries, roasted plum, mushroom and woodsy underbrush; slightly reduced. Then high-pitched and intense, with good depth, definition and sweetness of flavor. Finishes with slightly gritty, youthfully austere tannins and very good length. A rich but backward Barolo that argues for at least a few years of patience.


2000 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi

($90) Good dark red. Aromas of raspberry, truffle, marzipan and underbrush show an almost decadent sweetness. Then broad and fat if a bit green-edged, with a medicinal austerity and some edgy acidity. Not especially sweet in the mouth: is it less ripe than the Cerequio or is it simply closed today? Finishes with dusty tannins. (Unfortunately, my bottle of the 1997 Barolo Triumviratum Riserva was extremely dry and lacking in fruit.) (Kobrand, Inc., New York NY

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