2000 Fratelli Cigliutti Barbaresco Via Erte

($50) Good dark red. Reduced, slightly rustic nose offers superripe red fruits, leather, smoke, coffee and underbrush. Rather soft on the attack, then sweet, fat and full in the middle, with the leathery rusticity carrying through on the palate. Finishes with chewy, dusty, slightly drying tannins.

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2000 Fratelli Cigliutti Barbaresco Serraboella

($57) Saturated deep red. Brooding aromas of red berries, black plum, chocolate, licorice and earth. Suave, sweet and highly concentrated, with perfumed flavors of red fruits, dried rose and white truffle. A real essence of Barbaresco, finishing with broad, toothdusting tannins, strong soil character and superb persistence.

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2001 Fratelli Cigliutti Barbaresco Via Erte

($50) Full red-ruby. Aromatically expressive nose combines raspberry, redcurrant, pungent spices, tobacco and mint. Fresh and perfumed in the mouth, with notes of flowers and mint. Firm but harmonious acids give shape to this rather lush midweight. Finishes with very fine tannins and lingering floral flavors. (Unfortunately, my sample of the 2001 Serraboella tasted in Italy in September lacked vibrancy and was almost certainly not representative; the wine had not yet reached the U.S. at presstime.) (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York NY

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