2002 Domenico Clerico Barolo

Very good medium red. Redcurrant, tobacco, smoke and nuts on the low-toned nose. Soft and gentle, with decent density and sweetness. Appears to have just enough material to buffer its firm tannins and juicy acids.


2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra

Good medium red. Exotic, exhilarating aromas of sappy red berry liqueur and woodsmoke. Wonderfully sweet on entry, then superripe and liqueur-like in the middle palate, with an utterly suave texture over firm supporting spine. Finishes impressively long and sweet, with serious but noble tannins. There's nothing especially austere or forbidding about this extremely rich Barolo.


2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana

Good dark red. Superripe, slightly reduced aromas of raspberry and mocha (this usually shows blacker fruits on the nose at this stage). Suave on entry, then musky, mellow and rich; less directly fruity than the Ginestra but simultaneously opulent and stylish. Finishes with big, rich, chewy tannins that coat the front teeth. Both this and the Ginestra seem much more than a year younger than the same two bottlings from the 2000 vintage.

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2000 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra

($83; these vines are 30 to 35 years of age, vs. about 15 to 20 for the Pajana) Medium red. Redcurrant, marzipan, minerals, mocha and coconutty oak on the nose. Plump, sweet and concentrated, with enticing red fruit and tar flavors. Dense and fine-grained but without quite the definition of the best years. Finishes with strong, tooth-coating tannins and a lingering note of dried flowers.


2000 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana

($83) Deep red. Nutty oak and marzipan on the nose. Lush, sweet and forward, in the style of the vintage. Shows distinct signs of surmaturite, with rather low acidity. Notes of tobacco, chocolate and underbrush. Finishes with substantial but slightly drying tannins.

2000 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina

The most complex today on the nose of Clerico's three 2000 Barolos, with notes of smoky red fruits and nuts. Sweet, smooth and seamless, with a glyceral texture that really captures the richness of the vintage. Highly concentrated wine but without the sheer verve and grip of the '99. Finishes with big, rich tannins and impressive length. (Marc de Grazia; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

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