2001 Cocito Barbaresco Baluchin Riserva

($65; Giorgio Rivetti vinifies this wine for the owner of this very steep vineyard in Neive) Medium red. Aromas of dried fruits and graphite. Firmly built and adamantly dry, even a bit tough; dominated today by its structure. A much less fruity style than Rivetti's own La Spinetta wines. Best today on the firm, lingering finish. . (Willette Wines, New York, NY)

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