2001 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera

($62) Deep red-ruby. Raspberry, spices, tobacco and nutty oak, all lifted by a floral element. Supple and sweet, with red berry and spicy oak flavors framed by fresh acidity. Quite primary, even a bit muscular, finishing with very firm, slightly drying tannins and a medicinal note.


2000 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera

($62) Full red-ruby. Complex, full-blown aromas of dark berries, smoke, underbrush and game, with a suggestion of nut skin. Sweet on entry, then a bit gritty with extraction. Currently showing a distinctly dry aspect and finishes with rather chewy tannins.


2000 Elvio Cogno Barolo Vigna Elena Riserva

($72) Full ruby-red. Exotic roasted berries, fruit cake and game on the superripe, liqueur-like nose. Nicely concentrated and very ripe, but on the dry side; lacks real mid-palate sweetness despite its exotic fruitcake flavors. I don't find a lot of personality here. Finishes with substantial drying tannins. (My bottle of the '99 was quite suave on entry, then turned rustic and leathery in the middle palate, and finished quite dry.) (Vias Imports, New York, NY)

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