2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo L'Andre

Moderately saturated medium red. Compelling, exotic nose combines raspberry liqueur, blood orange, pink peppercorn, nutmeg and sandalwood. Juicy and penetrating, with superb freshness and lift. The red berry and spice flavors are complemented by an exotic suggestion of tropical fruits. Finishes juicy, minerally and very long, with the firm tannins coming very late. Very sexy wine. There was just a single 20-hectoliter Slavonian oval of this juice.


2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo Vigna Plicotti

Bright, deep red. Raspberry, cherry and sandalwood on the nose; a bit less pungent than the Andre. Lush, fat and full, if less showy and sweet than the Andre. This may not yet be expressing itself, but the texture is pure silk. Finishes with firm, building tannins and a juicy quality.


2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo Giachini

Bright red-ruby. Sexy, penetrating, rather pinot-like aromas of cherry, raspberry, mace and nutmeg. Then sweet, broad and firmly built, with cool red fruit and mineral flavors nicely framed by firm acids. In the past, the Corino Giachini bottling has struck me as Musigny-like; in 2001, this example from Grasso offers some of the same Burgundian tang and minerality. Very youthful Barolo, finishing with substantial but fine tannins that call for five or six years of aging.


2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Luciani

(from lower on the same hill as the Giachini) Bright red-ruby. More dark fruits than red on the nose, with musky notes of chicory and espresso. Sweet, broad and full, with thorough ripeness if a bit less lift than the Giachini. Less noble but very ripe, with powerful fruit and a liqueur-like sweetness on the back. Finishes with terrific breadth and major tannins. This, too, needs a good five or six years of patience.


2001 Silvio Grasso Barolo Ciabot Manzoni

Good deep red-ruby. Musky espresso, menthol and dried flowers on the nose; more classically Barolo and less Burgundian. At once broad and juicy, with concentrated dark berry and menthol flavors conveying intensity without any undue weight. Lovely rising finish features big, chewy tannins.

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2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo Pi Vigne

($68; Grasso's new name for his normale, aged in used barriques Medium red. Mellow, inviting aromas of redcurrant, marzipan, truffle and underbrush. Sweet, lush and ripe, with generous, broad strawberry and raspberry fruit flavors. This attractive wine offers good snap and verve, and finishes with very fine tannins.


2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo Giachini

($68; aged in once-used barriques Moderately saturated medium red. Complex, mellow nose combines cherry, minerals, mocha, earth, woodsmoke and plum pudding; reminded me of mature Burgundy Sweet but firm; distinctly more withdrawn and less lush than the Pi Vigne. Today the wine's aromatic complexity does not quite carry through on the palate. Finishes with slightly dusty tannins that are a bit less pliant than those of the Pi Vigne.


2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo Vigna Plicotti

($68; aged in one-year-old barriques Medium red. Aroma of cherry syrup, underbrush and nutty oak; comes across as more evolved than the Giachini. Then lush and fat on the palate, but with only modest verve and clarity. Finishes with dusty, slightly drying tannins. Offers good texture but comes across as a bit dull.


2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo Ciabot Manzoni

($90; 100% new barriques Good medium red. Expressive aromas of strawberry, raspberry, minerals and smoky, spicy oak, with a note of iodine. Sweet, mellow and lush, with strawberry fruit complemented by spicy oak. A fine-grained midweight with good life in the mouth. Finishes with ripe tannins and excellent length.


2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo Bricco Luciani

($68; all new barriques Medium red. Strawberry, flowers, woodsmoke and nutty oak on the nose. Juicy but tight; distinctly tougher and more backward than the Ciabot Manzoni, and showing less texture today. Here the wine's wood tannins are more apparent on the tight finish.


2000 Silvio Grasso Barolo L'Andre

($68; this is reportedly the Pi Vigne juice done in a new large oval) Moderately saturated medium red. Ethereal aromas of strawberry, dried rose and spices. Fine-grained, smooth and lively, with a fresh strawberry flavor and noteworthy inner-mouth energy and lift. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

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