2000 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga

($40) Medium red. Vinous aromas of cherry, truffle, underbrush and dried flowers. Smooth and moderately sweet, with good breadth and supple texture. Offers a floral perfume but currently shows limited complexity and concentration. Tannins are dusty but even. Best today on the nose.

2000 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

($89; aged in barriques Medium red. Deeper, musky aromas of strawberry, raspberry, espresso and nutty oak. Lusher and deeper-pitched than the Martinenga, with nutty and woodsy elements. But not sweeter or more vibrant than the Martinenga. Here, the wine's dusty, lingering tannins arrive later and the wine's subtle flavors linger longer.

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2000 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros

($89; the aging begins in barriques and finishes in Slavonian ovals) Medium red. Captivating, highly perfumed aromas of cherry, raspberry and rose petal. Silky, stylish and sweet, with the wine's pliant fleshiness nicely framed by perfectly integrated acidity. Offers a lovely floral perfume throughout. Finishes juicy and very long, with fine tannins. Clearly the best of the 2000 trio.

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2001 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga

($42) Medium cherry-red. Perfumed aromas of redcurrant, cherry, raspberry and fresh rose petal. Sweet, lush and bright; fleshier than the 2000 edition and more seamless. Not hugely complex but subtle and perfumed. Rather full for a wine from this estate but with lovely spice and energy. Finishes with sweet tannins and persistent red fruits and flowers. Unfortunately, the estate did not make available its Gaiun and Camp Gros bottlings from this excellent vintage. (Dalla Terra, Sonoma CA

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