2001 Franco M. Martinetti Barolo Marasco

Full ruby-red. Black raspberry, coffee, menthol and a whiff of cocoa powder on the nose. Sweet and dense on entry, then high-pitched and youthfully medicinal in the middle palate, with a suggestion of cherry cough syrup. A very backward Barolo for this producer, finishing with rather tough tannins that call for at least six to eight years of aging.

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2000 Franco M. Martinetti Barolo Marasco

($70) Red-ruby. Aromas of mocha, underbrush and nutty, cedary oak; a suggestion of dark berry liqueur emerged with aeration. Sweet on entry, then glyceral but a bit dry in the middle, with a note of leather and modest verve. The wine's fruit is more roasted than fresh. Finishes with drying wood tannins. (Vinifera Wine Imports, Ronkonkoma NY

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