2001 Mauro Molino Barolo

Good full red. Subdued but pure aromas of plum, menthol, underbrush and nutty oak. Fresh and firm but a bit streamlined, showing only modest stuffing today. This is less easygoing than the 2000 but needs time.

88(+?)

2001 Mauro Molino Barolo Gallinotto

Deep red-ruby. Cool aromas of redcurrant, sandalwood, mint and cola. Then very ripe and aromatic in the mouth, with complex flavors of sweet red berries, minerals and brown spices. Has the concentration of material to buffer its firm acids. Finishes with dusty, chocolatey tannins that are a bit youthfully tough.

89(+?)

2001 Mauro Molino Barolo Vigna Gancia

Deep ruby-red. Captivating aromas of baked strawberry, cedar, minerals, mint and licorice. Quite suave on entry, then creamy-sweet but vibrant in the middle, with a blackberry flavor that manages to be both liqueur-like and cool. This possesses terrific spine. The dusty, building tannins make themselves felt quite late.

91(+?)
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2001 Mauro Molino Barolo Vigna Conca

Good deep red with ruby highlights. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, clove, nutmeg, mint and cedar. Juicy and sweet but tightly wound, with a more dominant tannic structure today than the Gancia. This offers ethereal fruit and spice notes and a long, slightly resiny finish, but here the tannins come earlier and coat the front teeth.

91(+?)

2000 Mauro Molino Barolo

($40) Moderately saturated medium red. Subtle, woodsy nose hints at red berries, game and cinnamon. A sweet, nicely aromatic midweight with moderate nuance and thrust. Finishes with dusty, firm tannins and good length.

87

2000 Mauro Molino Barolo Vigna Gancia

($60; aged in a combination of new and used barriques; the normale gets a combination of large ovals and used barriques Good medium red. Nicely perfumed aromas of redcurrant, flowers and underbrush. Juicy and vibrant, with sweetness and spice added by the oak. In a rather friendly style, but the wood tannins give the finish a slight dryness.

88

2000 Mauro Molino Barolo Vigna Conca

($85; about two-thirds new barriques used) Medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco and smoky, nutty oak, with a mineral nuance. Richer and sweeter than this estate's other 2000 Barolos, with more flesh and a finer-grained texture. Finishes with broad, suave tannins and subtle persistence. Still, this is rather shy today, and not yet showing itself. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA)

90(+?)
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