2000 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Albarella

($71) Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, black cherry, violet and rose petal on the nose. Rich, fat and sweet; large-scaled and impressive, with dark flavors of cassis and violet. An impressive if rather extractive style of wine, with good inner-mouth perfume. Finishes with big, chewy, building tannins and obvious oakiness.


2000 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche

($78) Full ruby-red. Musky aromas of dark berries, maraschino cherry and nutty oak. Lush, sweet and deep; more exotic than the Albarella, with liqueur-like flavors of berries and black cherry. Quite large-scaled for a Barolo from La Morra. Really saturates the palate with fruit. Finishes long and rich, with big, ripe tannins.


2001 Andrea Oberto Barolo

($54) Red-ruby. Raspberry, redcurrant, spices and deep nutty oak, plus a note of Burgundian underbrush. Sweet, lush and rich, with an impressively glyceral texture and noteworthy intensity. Superripe and expressive, with flavors of red berries, licorice and chocolate truffle. Very expressive from the outset. A terrific normale

2001 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Albarella

($71) Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of maraschino cherry, flowers, red licorice and spicy oak. Lush, sweet and glyceral yet almost magically light on its feet, particularly for a wine with an almost liqueur-like ripeness. Spicy red fruit flavors are lifted by floral perfume. This, too, hints at chocolate truffle. Finishes with rich, sweet, chocolatey tannins and considerable alcoholic clout.


2001 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche

($78) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Liqueur-like like red fruits and strong oak on the nose. Big, rich, supple and sweet, with the spicy oak currently dominating the wine's fruit. Perhaps the biggest of these Oberto wines but very oaky and a bit heavyhanded. Finishes with substantial wood tannins and lingering sweetness. The oak is a question mark here, but I may simply have caught this wine at an awkward stage. (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York NY

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