2000 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

($60) Medium red. Musky aromas of strawberry, espresso, gunflint and nutty oak; a bit syrah-like. Lush, soft and sweet, with sauvage flavors of strawberry jam, game, leather and underbrush. Full-blown, superripe, rather rustic Barolo that finishes with dusty, slightly drying tannins.

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2000 Oddero Barolo Mondoca di Bussia Soprana

($60) Good medium red. Subdued but distinctly purer aromas of liqueur-like red fruits. Superripe, rich and chewy, with plenty of structure underneath the fat. Not especially complex but has plenty of stuffing. Finishes with sweet, rather pliant tannins.

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2000 Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda Serralunga

($65) Medium red. Wild, expressive nose melds strawberry, bacon fat, minerals, truffle and underbrush. Rich, lush and dense, with excellent volume if not quite the sweetness or brightness of fruit of the Mondoca di Bussia. Seamless and thick, just this side of heavy. Finishes with big, broad, dusty tannins. (Vinifera Wine Imports, Ronkonkoma NY

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