The Pommiers started this domain in 1990 with two hectares of vines from relatives and now have 13 hectares, including 4 of premier crus. The crus are vinified in a combination of cuves and pieces, and there are typically two bottlings for most of these wines. The bottling done for the U.S. importer takes place before the next harvest; Denis Pommier described the later mise as having more aging potential. Pommier considers 2006 to be an excellent year that brought outstanding ripeness, but he feels that the wines lack a bit of vivacity and don't have quite the balance of the 2005s. He did not start harvesting until September 20 and now wonders if he should have picked earlier and more quickly. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
(just pumped a few days ago) Good pale, green-tinged color. Musky lime and lees on the nose. Fairly round, fleshy and rich, conveying a rather sweet impression and finishing with good length.
(old vines; 50% aging in used barrels) Ripe, honeyed nose. Fat, rich and nicely concentrated but on the soft side, favoring ripe yellow fruits rather than minerality. Finishes with good length.
(these vines range from 25 to 50 years of age) A bit more lift to the aromas of stone and citrus fruits and hazelnut. Supple and creamy in the mouth but with mineral and spice notes giving this more verve than the Croix au Moine. Nicely restrained fruitiness here. Finishes firmer than the preceding samples.
(from a 1955 planting) Pale color. Subtly complex aromas of ripe yellow fruits, mango and hazelnut. Fat, soft and rich but firm, with good underlying minerality filling in for the low acidity of the vintage, and giving the back end good thrust. This is promising.
(my sample was from barrel, but most of this wine is aging in cuve Good pale color. Ripe, high-pitched nose offers subtle stone fruits and hazelnut. Fat, fine-grained and seamless, with lovely inner-mouth perfume giving this an impression of elegance. Not a particularly minerally style but not especially oaky either. Builds nicely on the back end.
($22; from the first bottling) Pale color. Bright, pure, citric nose. Ripe but juicy and firm, with citrus peel flavors complicated by fresh herbs and earth. Good material and structure here. Finishes with good lift and length.
($26; just one bottling for this cuvee, done before the harvest of 2006) Pale yellow. Subdued, slightly tired nose hints at white truffle. Round and fat, with lower-toned earth and underbrush flavors dominating. This has texture but needs more life.
($38; from the second bottling, in February of 2007) Musky, nuanced nose hints at citrus peel and fresh-cut hay. Rich and complex in the mouth, with lovely balance and freshness. The stone and citrus fruit flavors are quite expressive today. Finishes with very good length. Pommier ages 95% of this juice in cuve as he does not like the effect of oak on his Fourchaume.
($38) Pale yellow. Subdued but complex aromas of truffle, hay and herbs, lifted by floral and mint nuances; a bit oaky today. Ripe but bright and juicy, with a mineral firmness and good lemony cut. Quite dry and still a bit youthfully disjointed today, and less elegant in texture than the Fourchaume. Pommier recommends giving this a year or two in the cellar for the oak to integrate.
($38) Reticent but pure aromas of musky white truffle, lemon, fresh hay and honey. Firm and fine-grained; the tightest and most minerally of these 2005s, with a brisk citrus character dominating. A very firmly structured wine with a lovely juicy, rising finish. "I find this to be the most typical Chablis premier cru," says Pommier, "but then I don't own any Montee de Tonnerre."