2005 Domaine A. & F. Boudin Chablis

($30) Bright, pale yellow. Aromas of lemon, smoke and menthol, lifted by violet and lavender notes. Juicy, intense and quite dry, with an intriguing marrowy quality to its soft citrus, melon and stone flavors. Complex, serious village wine with good flesh. In the slightly rustic style of this producer, but there's no shortage or nuance or texture.


2005 Domaine A. & F. Boudin Chablis Fourchaume

($40) Pale color. Somewhat funky aromas of peach and earth, with honeyed high tones. Tangy, energetic and youthfully austere, with a citric edge to the flavors of peach and underripe pineapple. Firmly structured and rather unevolved Chablis in need of patience. Finishes with good length. (A Peter Vezan Selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY and North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA)

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