2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Petit Chablis

($15) Pale yellow. Subtle aromas of yellow fruits and ginger. Juicy, supple and spicy, with good intensity to the stone fruit flavors. Floral lift adds refinement. Interestingly, this is the only one of these 2006s that was not in bottle in early June.


2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Chablis

($23) Very pale color. More exotic on the nose than the Petit Chablis. Ripe but dry, with stone fruit flavors and a whiff of banana. I find this less structured and more coarse than the Petit Chablis. Or is it simply shocked by the bottling?


2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Chablis Vieilles Vignes

($30; from vines planted between 1926 and 1952 in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne) Good pale color. Complex aromas and flavors of yellow fruits, hay and fresh herbs. Plump, ripe and broad, with good sweetness leavened by sound acidity. A very full yet subtle wine that will offer immediate pleasure. This shows little effect of the early May bottling.


2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Chablis Cote de Lechet

($37) Pale color. Reserved nose hints at spices, fresh-cut hay and acacia flower. Supple, silky and pure, with good volume to the flavors of lime and white flowers. A smooth and delicate wine with a long, suave finish that dusts the palate with spices. Comes off as sweeter than the old-vines village wine.


2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Chablis Fourchaume

($40) Good pale color. Subtle aromas of stone fruits, honey, nutmeg and vanilla. Ripe but ultimately quite dry and tightly wound, with dominant flavors of pit fruits. This seemed to close down in the glass. Almost tastes like a wine made in barrel, but all of these are done entirely in stainless steel.


2006 Domaine des Chenevieres Chablis Homme Mort

($43) Pale, green-tinged color. Nuanced, high-pitched aromas of lime, herbs, hay and spearmint. A step up in intensity over the other 2006s from this producer, with an attractive cool character and enticing vibrancy to its flavors of lime, lemon and minerals. This is actually quite showy now, and finishes with terrific definition and grip. Will this shut down in the bottle? These wines, all carrying about 13% alcohol, are made by Frederic Gueguen, who in 2003 purchased this domain from Bernard and Lucette Tremblay. (Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA)

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