2006 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis Vaudesir

Pale, bright yellow color. Musky aromas of lemon, lime, quinine, powdered stone and talc, with an enticing violet topnote. Rich, ripe and easygoing, with considerable early appeal and very good freshness to its peach and spice flavors. The 2006s from Chablis will be much more charming young than the 2005s, notes Philippe Drouhin. Finishes broad, long and sweet, with tangy stone fruit flavors that stimulate the salivary glands.

90-92

2006 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis Les Clos

Good pale yellow. Soil-inflected nose offers flint, smoke, minerals, quinine and dusty stone, plus notes of white pepper and snap pea that reminded me of gruner veltliner. Sappy, classic and backward, with a distinctly tactile quality to the flavors of powdered stone and citrus peel. Much less showy today than the Vaudesir but not at all hard. This really dusts the palate.

91-93

2005 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis Vaudesir

($85) Pale straw color. High-pitched aromas of lime skin, spearmint, quinine, juniper and dusty stone. Then supple and rather soft but light on its feet, with surprising mid-palate sweetness and complicating floral and mineral notes. Turns minerally and rather austere on the back end, suggesting that this grand cru will require several years of aging.

90(+?)

2005 Domaine/Maison Joseph Drouhin Chablis Les Clos

($95) Discreet, aristocratic aromas of powdered stone, pear and ginger. Broad in the mouth, but stony, minty and dry, conveying a strong impression of mineral austerity. An uncompromising style of Clos that is showing limited personality today. . (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY)

89(+?)
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