2004 Cambrien Shiraz Heathcote

($70) Glass-staining purple. Explosively perfumed aromas of sexy dark berries and licorice, complicated by fresh rose and baking spices. Lush and creamy but surprisingly elegant thanks to brightening acidity, with concentrated blueberry and cherry flavors and gentle minerality. The fine-grained tannins build on the finish but there's more than ample fruit to absorb them. Pretty remarkable stuff, with a rare balance of depth and energy. This wine is a joint project of Elva and Ron Laughton of Jasper Hill and Corinne and Michel Chapoutier of Northern Rhone fame. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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