2006 Cullen Wines Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Cullen Vineyard Margaret River

($30) Green-gold color. Spicy citrus, yellow apple and mint on the nose, with a deeper note of beeswax. Firm, dry and energetic citrus flavors display impressive cut and thrust. The very long finish is dominated by minerals. This was partially barrel-fermented but there's no oak showing today.


2005 Cullen Wines Chardonnay Margaret River

($55) Yellow-gold. Smoky, lees-accented pear, apricot and yellow plum on the nose, with complicating nuances of floral honey and pungent herbs. Tangy pear and citrus flavors are sweetened by a malty, leesy quality that adds depth. Gains weight with air and finishes impressively long, with ripe apple and peach flavors and excellent mineral lift. I like the mix of ripe and taut tones here.


2006 Cullen Wines Mangan Margaret River

($42; a blend of 50% merlot, 36% petit verdot and 14% malbec) Bright red. Extremely pungent, herb-accented redcurrant, cherry and rhubarb aromas complicated by licorice and black tea. Surprisingly sweet in the mouth, with fleshy red and dark berry flavors, bright minerality and firm, youthful tannins. Finishes with a refreshing note of bitter cherry skin, and noteworthy persistence.


2006 Cullen Wines Margaret River Red Margaret River

($20; a Bordeaux blend) Ruby-red. Zesty redcurrant, cranberry and rhubarb on the nose, with lively mint and mineral accents. Crisp, focused red fruit and herb flavors convey a light touch and a hint of orange zest on the finish. It's hard to imagine a wine that's farther from the outsized, over-the-top Australian red stereotype.


2005 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Margaret River

($75) Bright purple. Intriguingly perfumed aromas of vibrant red- and blackcurrant, cherry and plum brightened by nervy mineral and fresh rose notes. Crisp and wonderfully focused red fruit flavors show no rough edges and offer impressive depth; the floral quality builds with air and a hint of anise arrives on the back. This really expands and gains in sweetness on the long, spicy finish. Possesses the balance and concentration to repay at least another six years of cellaring. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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