2005 Deisen Grenache Barossa Valley

($44) Dark red. Intense red berry scents are brightened by Asian spices and fresh lavender, with a zesty orange peel note adding complexity. A fresh, tangy midweight, with an intriguing interplay of energy and deep, sweet berry fruit. Impressively supple tannins allow the fruit to expand across the palate, adding support but not hardness. Finishes on a bright raspberry note, with excellent length.


2005 Deisen Mataro Barossa Valley

($44) Inky ruby. Musky cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by truffle and underbrush. Firm on entry but fleshes out with air, showing a bitter cherry and dark chocolate character, with a gentle vanilla note adding sweetness. Youthfully tannic on the finish, which features earthy sassafras and a sweeter hint of cherry-cola. This needs time to flesh out.


2004 Deisen Shiraz Barossa Valley

($65) Deep ruby. Flamboyantly aromatic nose offers an array of red and dark berry scents accompanied by cola, fresh and dried flowers, pungent herbs and a late-arriving whiff of licorice. Youthfully tangy dark berry and cherry-cola flavors display a fresh minerality, joined by sweet floral pastille notes on the back end. Picks up a complex smoky quality with air, finishing with firm but harmonious tannins. Put this one away for a while or give it a good decanting. (Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA)

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