2005 Giant Steps Chardonnay Sexton Vineyard Yarra Valley

($25) Green-gold. Deep, smoke nose offers an exotic array of melon, pit fruit, lees and spices. Intensely mineral on the palate, with vibrant citrus and melon flavors complicated by peach pit and toasted bread nuances. In a firm, impressively focused style, finishing structured, spicy and long. There's lots going on here.


2005 Giant Steps Chardonnay Tarraford Vineyard Yarra Valley

($35) Light gold. Pungent, earth-accented orange and pear aromas, with truffle, smoked meat and nougat nuances. Tightly wound citrus and orchard fruit flavors display admirable purity and thrust, with a late mineral note adding energy. This very vibrant wine finishes with an outstanding display of youthful vigor and excellent length.


2005 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Sexton Vineyards Yarra Valley

($25) Medium red. Captivating bouquet of red berries, cherry, dried flowers, anise and minerals. Crisp and energetic on the palate, with bright red fruits and rhubarb buttressed by bracing minerality. Finishes clear and long, with a refreshing note of bitter pomegranate.


2005 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Tarraford Vineyard Yarra Valley

($35) Light red. Spicy strawberry and raspberry on the nose, complicated by notes of white pepper and cinnamon. The sweet, juicy flavors of fresh red berries are complicated by orange zest and baking spice. Finishes lithe, crisp and long, with subtle tannins. An elegant, understated pinot that would surprise those who think that all reds from Australia are hulking knuckle-draggers.


2005 Giant Steps Shiraz Yarra Valley

($25) Inky ruby. Strongly spiced dark berry and cherry aromas are reminiscent of the northern Rhone. Peppery red berry flavors possess striking elegance and are brightened by zesty minerality and a fresh floral character. A graceful, finely etched example of Australian shiraz, with striking purity and excellent finishing persistence. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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