Also recommended: 2004 Chardonnay Reserve Yarra Valley (86), 2004 Chardonnay Victoria (85). (Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY)
($18) Orange-pink. Minty redcurrant and wild strawberry aromas are distinctly taut and focused. Uncompromisingly dry, with mineral-accented red berry and cherry flavors displaying a refreshingly bitter edge. Light, racy and penetrating, with good finishing energy and length.
($19; a 51/49 blend) Ruby-red. Bright redcurrant and cherry aromas complicated by pungent herbs, anise and black olive. Quite wound-up in the mouth, with vaguely green flavors of red and dark berries, medium body and a crisp, nervy finish. Needs some time to unwind but I like the finesse and focus here.
($19) Deep ruby. Pungent cherry and cassis aromas are complicated by fresh violet, licorice, smoked meat and graphite. Vibrant red and dark berry flavors possess good depth and precision, with lively acidity lending lift. Gains sweetness on the close, finishing with notes of blackberry, blackcurrant and licorice candy. Distinctly elegant and poised, with Old World restraint and dryness.