2004 Haan Merlot Prestige Barossa Valley

($48) Dark red. Potent kirsch and blackberry aromas deepened by dark chocolate and espresso. Ripe and dense, with weighty cherry and bitter chocolate flavors that are a bit inexpressive at present. Picks up solid tannins on the back. With air, powerful creme de mure and cherry-cola notes emerge, along with an espresso quality. This needs patience.

88(+?)

2004 Haan Wilhalmus Barossa Valley

($48; 40% cabernet sauvignon, 20% each of cabernet franc and merlot, and 10% apiece of malbec and petit verdot) Inky ruby. Strongly perfumed aromas of ripe blackberry and candied plum. Smoothly textured and sweet, showing impressive density and clean dark berry flavors. Gentle tannins build on the long, juicy finish. Impressively harmonious wine, with an intriguing mix of fresh and candied fruits lingering tenaciously. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)

90
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