2004 Hugo Wines Shiraz McLaren Vale

($18) Dark red. Raspberry and kirsch aromas are brightened by floral and cracked pepper notes. Tangy red and dark berry flavors are taut and spicy, perhaps a touch tart. Lively acidity brightens the long, spicy finish. There's no excess fat here. Some tasters may find this wanting a bit more oomph but I like the light touch. (American Estates Wines, Philadelphia, PA)

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