2006 Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris Yarra Valley

($20) Light yellow. Smoky peach, pear and yellow plum on the nose, with slow-building florality. Juicy pit fruit flavors are gently supported by soft acidity and complicated by notes of floral honey and musky herbs. Finishes plump, supple and reasonably persistent.

87

2006 Innocent Bystander Pinot Rose Yarra Valley

($16) Pale pink. Vibrant scents of strawberry, redcurrant and orange zest are deepened by an impression of blond tobacco. Crisp, focused red berry flavors possess excellent vivacity and purity, gaining in depth on the finish and picking up a subtle smoky note. Delicious and way too easy to drink.

89

2006 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

($16) Light red. Brisk redcurrant and rhubarb on the nose, with zesty minerals and flowers adding energy. The crisp, mineral-accented red berry flavors are impressively focused and clean, with gentle tannins contributing structure. A taut, focused, lighter-styled pinot that I'd have confused with a good Pernand-Vergelesses. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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