2005 John Duval Wines Plexus Red Wine Barossa Valley

($35; 50% shiraz, 34% grenache and 16% mourvedre) Bright ruby. Focused raspberry and cassis aromas, with sexy Asian spice and vanilla notes adding complexity. A suave, silky midweight, with pure red and dark berry flavors braced by racy acidity. I love the interplay of sweet, juicy fruit, supple tannins and understated oak. Finishes with the clarity, complexity and persistence of wines that cost three times the price. One of the greatest values in Australian wine today.

2005 John Duval Wines Shiraz Entity Barossa Valley

($40) Deep violet. Hugely aromatic nose combines powerful blackberry, dark cherry, licorice, mocha and violet scents. Lush and velvety, but with bright minerality giving the dark berry flavors remarkable vivacity. Fills out with air, picking up deeper espresso and high-octane chocolate notes. But this is all about fresh, energetic, pure fruit. Finishes on a bright, nervy note of berry skin, with superb length. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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