Other wines tasted: 2004 Sparkling Shiraz Coonawarra. (The Ravensvale Group, Naples, FL)

2003 Leconfield Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra

($28) Dark red. Classic cabernet aromas of spicy red- and blackcurrant, cherry and cigar box; sweeter vanilla and floral pastille notes come up with air. A chewy midweight, with tangy red berry and cherry flavors giving way to darker plum on the back. In a distinctly grown-up style, with very good concentration, focus and energy on the gently tannic finish. I like the structure here a lot.

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