($22) Light straw. Strong citrus and spice aromas are complicated by jasmine and mint. Strikingly fresh, with vivid tangerine and pear flavors, chewy texture and a long, penetrating finish. A dry, clean, refreshing riesling, in a typical style for Leeuwin.
($20; a 62/38 blend) Intense citrus and jalapeno pepper on the nose, with a bright quinine accent; this is really pungent and all about sauvignon blanc today. Racy, sharply focused citrus and quince flavors possess impressive depth and breadth, with a sappy quality to the finish. Pretty serious stuff, and in need of some fresh shellfish.
($29) Light gold. Open-knit aromas of tangerine, anise and white flowers brightened by lemon zest. Firm citrus flavors lead to riper apple and pear notes, with zesty acidity lending lift and focus. Picks up a warm note on the back. along with a hint of oak spice.
($79) Light gold. Intensely mineral aromas of iodine-accented peach, melon, anise, marzipan and nougat. Lush, expansive and powerful stone fruit and melon flavors really stain the palate, picking up licorice and citrus pith notes on the back. This is more linear and taut than a bottle of the superb 2002 showed recently, and has the balance to reward at least six years of cellaring. It seems to have more energy, too. As usual, one of the best Australian chardonnays of the year.
($20) Deep red. Pure red berry aromas are deepened by woodsmoke, licorice and black cardamom. Juicy and fresh, with energetic raspberry and cherry flavors, gentle acidity, and a soft, silky texture. Finishes with a refreshing jolt of bitter cherry skin and very good length.
($30) Dark purple. Black raspberry and cassis on the nose, with gentle oak spice and cracked pepper accents. Clean, juicy dark berry flavors display good depth and sweetness, picking up a dose of vanillin oak spice on the back. The lingering finish features jammy raspberry and a subtle hint of woodsmoke.
($29) Bright red. Peppery, herb-accented cherry and redcurrant aromas strongly suggest Bordeaux; this doesn't smell like it's from a superripe vintage. Taut, light red berry and plum flavors are nicely focused and zesty, with fine-grained tannins adding structure. Finishes bright and crisp, with very good persistence and a lingering note of cherry pit. Nice balance here.
($45) Deep red. Spicy red- and blackcurrant aromas display a youthfully tangy quality, with surprising clarity for a cabernet from a hot vintage. A bit musclebound initially but aeration brought fleshier dark berry, mocha and baking spice flavors. The spice notes repeat on the long, juicy finish, which features a lingering impression of ripe cherry. Give this some time in bottle. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)