2005 Marquee Artisan Wines Secret Red Wine Victoria

($15) Dense ruby. Ripe cherry and raspberry aromas are complicated by tobacco, mocha and dried rose. Sweet and lush, with creamy red berry flavors, a sexy vanilla note and soft tannins. Supple, seamless and very easy to drink, offering sweet fruit and good length. I wish that the label wasn't so gnarly.

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2005 Marquee Artisan Wines Seduction Red Wine Victoria

($15) Dark red. Spicy redcurrant and strawberry on the nose, with a kiss of white pepper. Silky in texture, with zesty red berry flavors firmed by brisk acids and minerality. Finishes precise and persistent, with a clean, lively note of cranberry. Another cringe-inducing label here, too.

88

2005 Marquee Artisan Wines Chardonnay Dessert Shoalhaven Coast (half bottle)

($17; for 375 ml.) Deep gold. Ripe nectarine, apricot and poached pear aromas are gently lifted by light mineral tones. Quite sweet, but the array of pit and citrus fruit marmalade flavors is braced by energetic acidity. Finishes with citrus peel and apricot pit. (Marquee Selections, Kansas City, MO)

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