2005 Mount Mary Vineyard Chardonnay Yarra Valley

($90) Light gold. Leesy aromas of pear, orange and white peach are given an exotic twist by iodine and smoked meat. Deep and creamy, but braced by firm minerality that gives shape and structure to the ripe flavors of honeyed pear and citrus fruits. The smoky note returns on the long, juicy finish. This strongly suggests an upper-tier wine from the Cote d'Or.

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2004 Mount Mary Vineyard Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

($145) Pale red. Suave, perfumed aromas of red berries and blood orange complicated by fresh rose and zesty minerals. Lacy, delicate and poised, with uncanny precision to the sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors. Subtle earth and meat notes emerge with air but the emphasis is on graceful red fruit. The silky finish features fine-grained tannins and excellent length. This may be too understated for fans of most New World pinot.

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2004 Mount Mary Vineyard Quintet Yarra Valley

($145; a five-variety Bordeaux blend based on cabernet sauvignon) Dark red. Intense mineral, floral bouquet of cherry, redcurrant, cedar and fresh rose. Clean and brisk, with vibrant red berry flavors, intriguing graphite and iron accents and silky tannins. A wonderfully bright and focused wine with vibrant minerality on the long, spicy finish. This developed sweeter dark fruit flavors with air but it's all about elegance and focus. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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