Also recommended: 2004 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz South Australia (86). (Foster's Wine Estates Americas, Napa, CA)

2004 Penfolds Wines Chardonnay Yattarna South Eastern Australia

($66) Yellow-gold. Fresh lime, pear and tangerine aromas are complicated by gentle lees and buttered toast. Fresh citrus and pear flavors are given flesh by sweet butter and macadamia, with slow-mounting acidity providing energy and clarity. Not a fat style but well-concentrated, showing an array of citrus fruit and floral honey notes on the long, spicy finish.


2004 Penfolds Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 Barossa Valley

($26) Ruby-red. Peppery redcurrant and cherry aromas display impressive cut, with musky black tea and dark chocolate notes adding depth. Youthfully taut red and dark berry flavors are deepened by mocha and licorice, with fine-grained tannins adding gentle support. The long, juicy finish shows a restrained sweetness and hints of pungent herbs.


2004 Penfolds Wines Shiraz Bin 128 Coonawarra

($23) Bright purple. Strong floral notes lift cherry preserves, plum and cassis on the nose. Fleshy dark berry flavors are impressively fresh and pure, with good ripeness but no excess fat. A spicy fruitcake quality comes up with aeration and expands impressively. Chewy and sweet on the deep, persistent finish.


2004 Penfolds Wines Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 South Australia

($23) Inky violet. Ripe red and dark berry aromas are deepened by licorice and espresso. Cherry and dark berry flavors show a youthfully tannic character, with a slowly emerging note of floral pastille adding complexity. Less opulent than the Bin 128 but deeper and more concentrated, with powerful creme de cassis and plum compote notes on the long, juicy finish.


2004 Penfolds Wines Shiraz Magill Estate South Australia

($53) Dark ruby. Ripe raspberry and cherry on the nose, with exotic vanillin oak, incense and Asian spices adding complexity. Deep, luscious and sweet, showing a range of spicy red and dark fruit flavors underscored by mocha, floral pastille and baking spices. Juicy red berry preserve notes build on the long, juicy finish, which is gently firmed by suave, harmonious tannins. Give this some decanter time if you plan on drinking it young.


2004 Penfolds Wines Shiraz RWT Barossa Valley

($82) Deep ruby. Expansive, seductive bouquet of red and dark berries, with sexy vanillin oak spice, floral oils and graphite adding complexity. Lush and creamy but lively too, with energetic blackberry and mulberry flavors, exotic Asian spice accents and fine-grained, harmonious tannins. Suave mocha and candied licorice appear on the long, juicy finish. This is absolutely lovely right now, with no edginess or herbal notes, but will clearly repay a decade-plus in the cellar.


2003 Penfolds Wines St. Henri Shiraz South Australia

($42) Dark red. Vaguely roasted aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry and plum, plus hints of grilled meat and tobacco. Liqueur-like cherry and dark berry flavors betray a touch of warmth, with supple tannins building with air. This distinctly warm, toasty, rich wine should be drunk on the young side before it loses its freshness.


2002 Penfolds Wines Grange South Australia

($250) Ruby-red. Initially closed on the nose but aeration brings a complicated bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry, creme de mure, sexy oak spices, woodsmoke, tobacco, vanilla and fresh flowers. A deep, sweet but precise midweight, with energetic flavors of red and dark berries, cherry compote, cinnamon, mocha and smoked meat, all wrapped in substantial but silky tannins. Sappy and expansive on the impressively long, velvety finish. You'd be nuts to open this any time soon.

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