2005 Piombo Petnaga Diavola McLaren Vale

($70) Inky ruby. Deep, musky cherry and dark berry aromas are complicated by espresso, vanilla and baking spices. Fat and creamy, with jammy dark fruit flavors and sneaky acidity providing energy. Dusty tannins build with air. Really clings to the palate, offering an array of dark fruit and floral pastille flavors on the broad, long finish. Very impressive and pretty hard to resist today. (Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA)

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