Also recommended: 2006 Chardonnay McLaren Vale (86). (Click Wine Group, Seattle, WA)

2005 RockBare Shiraz McLaren Vale

($19) Dark purple. Sexy blackberry and boysenberry preserve aromas, with iron, tobacco and vanillin oak accents and an intriguing floral note emerging with air. Fresh dark berry flavors display impressive depth but also good energy thanks to juicy acidity. The oak notes sweeten the finish, which shows very good breadth and length. Easy to drink and not at all outsized.

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