2006 S. C. Pannell Sauvignon Blanc Adelaide Hills

($20) Straw-green color. Lively aromas of citrus fruits, pear and melon, with an overlay of pungent herbs and white pepper. Creamy orange and pear flavors are lifted by crisp mineral and citrus zest flavors, giving this sauvignon an intriguing complexity. Gains weight and a sweet, poached pear quality on the spicy finish.


2006 S. C. Pannell Grenache Rose McLaren Vale

($19) Lurid pink. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh raspberry, strawberry preserves and cherry, brightened by mineral and lavender notes. Silky in texture, with sweet, impressively concentrated red berry flavors complicated by a late kick of floral pastille. The fruit builds on the energetic, sharply focused finish. This reminded me of a Gigondas rose, and an excellent one at that.


2005 S. C. Pannell Shiraz/Grenache McLaren Vale

($48; 80% shiraz and 20% grenache) Bright ruby. Open-knit raspberry and kirsch aromas are subtly accented by vanilla and incense, with a slow-building impression of cracked pepper. Expands and deepens on the finish, taking on plum jam and bitter chocolate qualities but maintaining admirable freshness and precision. Very impressive balance here.


2005 S. C. Pannell Shiraz McLaren Vale

($56) Inky violet. Highly perfumed boysenberry and blueberry aromas are enlivened by exotic floral pastille, vanilla and incense notes, plus a subtle hint of graphite. Suave and silky in texture, showing impressively pure dark berry and fresh cherry flavors on a midweight frame. Whatever tannins might be here are buried under an avalanche of pure, sweet fruit. Downright sexy shiraz, finishing sweet and long, with a persistent candied violet note. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)

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