2005 Schubert Wines Shiraz Goose-yard Block Barossa Valley

($120) Inky purple. A black hole of a nose, showing aromas of ripe boysenberry, blueberry, plum, espresso, black pepper and printer's ink; aeration coaxes out graphite and iron notes. A massive mouthful of ripe, sweet dark berries, mocha, licorice and sexy baking spices. Unlike many other outsized examples of shiraz, this has real energy to complement its thick, weighty texture and liqueur-like fruit. Suave, velvety tannins add structure on the expansive, very long finish. This might be best served in homeopathic doses. (Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA)

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