($20) Green-gold. High-pitched lemon, lime and quince aromas complicated by herbs and minerals. Crisp, refreshingly bitter citrus pith flavors are underscored by a brisk chalky note that carries through the finish. A precise, very dry wine that's impressively balanced and pure.
($30) Light gold. Buttery pear, peach and melon on the nose, with hints of toasty oak. Clean and surprisingly brisk, with lively orchard fruit and honeydew flavors, zesty minerality and a long, spicy finish. This gains weight with air, picking up an orange marmalade quality.
($30) Bright straw. Focused pear and apple aromas are given depth by jasmine, sweet butter and blond tobacco. A dry, understated chardonnay, with admirably pure orchard and citrus flavors braced by zesty minerality and bitter lemon. Finishes with riper flavors of fresh honeydew and kiwi and excellent focus. I really like the restraint here.
($30) Bright purple. Intensely perfumed nose offers vivid, violet-accented blackberry and cherry sharpened by piquant minerality. Medium-bodied and fresh, with vibrant red and dark berry flavors, fine tannins and a crisp minerality on the finish. I love the combination of concentration and finesse here. (Vintus, Pleasantville, NY)