2006 Slipstream Chardonnay Adelaide Hills

($18) Bright straw. Vibrant citrus and pear on the nose, with subtle accents of baking spices and white flowers. Refreshingly dry and crisp, with fresh orchard and pit fruit flavors and a lively citrus zest lift on the back. This subdued but elegant chardonnay shows very good persistence.

88

2005 Slipstream Shiraz/Grenache McLaren Vale

($18; an 80/20 blend) Deep violet. Ripe raspberry and blackberry aromas show good freshness, with a candied licorice note adding depth. Crisp, energetic dark berry flavors are concentrated and impressively pure, with a late hit of mocha adding sweetness. This spicy, suave midweight finishes with good acid lift.

89

2005 Slipstream Shiraz The Fastback McLaren Vale

($30) Ruby-red. Vibrant redcurrant and raspberry aromas are complicated by toasty oak spice and cured meat. Vibrant, finely etched red berry flavors are pure and precise, with a fresh kick of acidity on the back adding cut. Finishes urgent and tangy, with silky tannins and excellent persistence. There's nothing outsized about this. These vines are planted in importer Ben Hammerschlag's own vineyard. (Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA)

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