Also recommended: 2005 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley (86). (Click Wine Group, Seattle, WA)

2004 Sticks Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley

($17) Medium red. Peppery redcurrant and cherry aromas are bright and precise, with a subtle tobacco note adding complexity. Crisp, tightly wound red berry and cherry flavors sweeten with air, taking a turn toward cassis. Shows soft acidity and light tannins on the back. An easygoing, juicy wine that's drinking well now.

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