2005 Tapanappa Chardonnay Tiers Vineyard Piccadilly Valley

($64) Pale yellow. Highly perfumed nose offers a complex array of smoky, leesy citrus and pit fruit aromas underscored by toasty oak and sweet butter. The fresh peach and yellow plum flavors possess impressive depth and are nicely brightened by fresh floral and baking spice notes. Impressively precise for a wine with such flavor impact. The juicy, persistent finish features traces of peach pit and toffeed orange. Lots going on here.

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2004 Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Wrattonbully

($64; a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% shiraz and 10% cabernet franc) Deep red. Musky cherry and plum scents are joined by underbrush, tobacco and pungent herbs. Fleshy dark fruit flavors are braced by gentle acidity and show bitter chocolate and licorice on the back. Finishes with a suave jolt of cassis and excellent length. This is the property of Brian Croser, long-time owner of Petaluma. (Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL)

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