2006 Viottolo Dolcetto McLaren Vale

($35) Bright red. Spicy redcurrant and cherry on the nose, with complicating anise, herb and mineral accents. Crisply focused red berry flavors on a light, elegant frame, with barely perceptible tannins and a bright, mineral-dominated finish. This graceful dolcetto shows none of the jammy qualities of so many New (and Old) world renditions. It's hard to stop drinking this.


2005 Viottolo Viale McLaren Vale

($35; a blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon) Ruby-red. Expansive aromas of red cherry, plum and blackberry, with complicating floral and espresso notes. Fat, creamy and sweet, with lush dark berry and candied cherry flavors, gentle acidity and soft tannins on the close. Supple and almost easygoing save for some slightly dry tannins. (Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA)

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