2005 Wilson Gunn Shiraz McLaren Vale

($35; made from late-harvested grapes) Inky purple. The nose opens slowly to reveal ripe boysenberry, kirsch and blackberry scents and hints of black cardamom and smoked meat. Sweet and oily but energized by crisp acidity, which lifts the ripe black and blue fruits. The chewy finish features impressive sweetness and outstanding length. I like this as much as the outstanding 2004. (Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA)

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