2005 Yeringberg Marsanne/Roussanne Yarra Valley

($35) Light yellow. Delicate, precise pear, quince and floral honey aromas are brightened by minerals and lemon zest. Firm, pure pit and citrus fruit flavors are braced by mouthwatering acidity. Finishes dry, chalky and very long. A distinctly grown-up style that I find really compelling.


2005 Yeringberg Chardonnay Yarra Valley

($35) Green-gold. Smoky melon, peach and yellow plum aromas, with an undercurrent of baking spices. This firm, chewy, medium-bodied chardonnay boasts admirably precise pit fruit and melon flavors with nuances of anise, mint and minerals. Really clings to the palate on the spicy back end.


2005 Yeringberg Pinot Noir Yarra Valley

($65) Light red. Impressively aromatic nose offers vibrant cherry, rhubarb and mineral scents complicated by cured tobacco and fresh rose. The sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors on a silky, elegant framework reminded me of Chambolle, with a zesty blood orange note adding energy and complexity. Finishes spicy, pure, sweet and long. This is strikingly refined, precise pinot by any measure.


2004 Yeringberg Red Wine Yarra Valley

($65) Ruby-red. Open-knit aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum and fresh flowers, with a hint of incense. Jammy dark berry flavors possess impressive depth and breadth. Finishes on a minerally, dusty note, with clinging dark berry and licorice flavors, no apparent tannins and excellent length. Reminds me of a modern Saint-Julien. (Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

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