2003 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico

($27) Medium ruby. An initially muted, almost musty nose opens to reveal classic sangiovese aromas of sour cherry and dried tea leaf, with pomegranate, redcurrant and iodine accents. Sweet and soft on entry, with a modest amount of lovely sweet and tart pomegranate and red cherry fruit. The moderately long, tart finish shows slightly astringent tannins.

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2000 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva

($49) Medium bright ruby. Sweet, rich aromas of cherry, berries and leather, with a suggestion of black truffle. Ripe, concentrated and pure in the mouth, with rich flavors of forest floor, mocha and dark plum. The finish is glyceral, deep and long, with very suave tannins. The wines of this estate have a track record for aging particularly well; for instance, wines from the '70s and '80s are delicious today and represent great examples of what fine sangiovese can deliver with time in bottle. Domaine Select, New York, NY)

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