Young Martino Manetti is following in the very big footsteps of his father, not an easy undertaking as Sergio Manetti was a larger-than-life Tuscan winemaking icon and one of the most important names in Italy's winemaking history. Montevertine was one of the first estates to eschew the Chianti name, opting to make Super-Tuscan wines instead: Sergio was fiercely opposed to using white grapes in his wine and basically never did, even when they were still labelled Chianti. The estate's Montevertine Rosso is as good as any Chianti and their Le Pergole Torte Super-Tuscan is an ode to rustic, traditionally made sangiovese at its best. All those who insist that temperature control is an absolute necessity to make world-class wines ought to come and take a look here.

2004 Montevertine Toscana Rosso

Ruby red. Pure sangiovese aromas of morello cherry, raspberry and a hint of tobacco on the bright, perfumed nose. Explosively fruity and captivating, with ripe red fruit flavors complicated by leather and spices. This very attractive wine is lithe and shapely on the long, smooth finish.


2003 Montevertine Toscana Rosso

Light-medium ruby. Ripe black cherry and dried tea leaf meld nicely with jammy raspberry on the nose. Pure and quite persistent on the palate, with cherry and raspberry flavors complicated by some tobacco and minerally pepperiness. Here the tannins are a little coarser-grained than those of the '04.


2001 Montevertine Toscana Rosso

($45) Bright ruby. Pretty, complex nose redolent of ripe red cherry and smoky plum, with intriguing hints of tobacco and chocolatey oak. Very suave on the palate, with bright acids and extremely fine-grained tannins nicely framing the red fruit, tobacco, and mushroom flavors. This midweight has sneaky concentration and a very long, lithe finish that leaves the mouth wanting more.


2003 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana Rosso

($90) Medium-deep ruby. Archetypical sangiovese aromas of sour cherry, dried tea leaf and bay are tinged by tobacco and leather. Rich, ripe dark fruit flavors accented by herbs and underpinned by a gamey element. Finishes long and smooth, with a rich, chewy texture: this is old-style sangiovese at its very best. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

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