Also recommended: 2003 Geremia Toscana Rosso (86).
Other wines tasted: 2003 Vigneto San Marcellino Chianti Classico. (T. Edward Wines, New York, NY)

2004 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico

($25) Deep, saturated ruby. Heavily reduced, almost barnyardy aromas clear up with time in the glass to reveal ripe black fruit, spicy plum and smoke. Fairly thick, broad and full, with substantial black cherry, plum, smoke and tar flavors given shape and lift by sound, clean acidity. This plump but juicy wine offers moderate complexity. Finishes with restrained sweetness, suave tannins and a note of chocolate mint.


1998 Rocca di Montegrossi Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (half bottle)

($97; for 375 ml.) Golden-bronze in color. Hazelnut and almond aromas predominate on the rich, nutty, slightly floral nose, with citrus nuances adding lift. Quite sweet but with more than enough acidity to avoid cloying. Complex flavors of dried fruits, white chocolate, mocha, date and fig show marvelous delineation on the very long, luscious finish.

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