Also recommended: 2004 Santedame Chianti Classico (85), 2003 Romitorio di Santadame Toscana Rosso (86). (Franciscan Oakville Estate, St. Helena, CA)

2001 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro

($40) Medium ruby. Fresh and penetrating red berry and much sweeter dark plum and cassis aromas are complemented by a woodsy quality. Supple and dense on the palate, with blackberry jam and smoky plum flavors along with hints of coffee and herbs on the back. Finishes with a solid tannic backbone, but there's a distinctly fine-grained character to the tannins in what has recently become a more internationally styled wine.

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